The ‘best’ one-day itinerary for Paris

Here's the best way to spend a 12-hour layover in Paris* (*according to 100 Francophiles who voted on our two options).

Last week, a mysterious email appeared in my inbox from “Will”, asking for the ideal itinerary for his upcoming 12-hour layover in Paris. Usually I’d just send a link to some kind of article I’ve written in the past, but this time, some kind of cosmic urging made me want to help this so-called Will.

Facing the challenge with bravery and enthusiasm (and, perhaps, a little bit of rivalry) I went head-to-head with my wife Lina as we presented our own versions of a perfect one-day plan.

We read them out on the podcast, and I pre-released the episode for Earful Tower members both on Patreon on Substack. 100 people listened, then voted for their favourite one.

And I’m happy to say that a whopping 57 percent majority voted for mine. So here it is, my recommended itinerary, in great detail. The perfect layover in Paris for a first time visitor (in this case, specifically on a Saturday in October, but that doesn’t really change anything). You can read Lina’s full itinerary here.

Oh yes, before we get into my itinerary, which I hope you can all use for travel inspiration, I have to say that I imagined Will to be a medical student on a budget and a bicycle. (Lina envisaged Will as a Wall Street mogul, lounging around Paris in taxis and an expensive pair of loafers.) But even if you’re neither of these things, there’s something here for you too, I’m sure. Oh yes, and we filmed this whole podcast for the first time ever, you can watch it here.

The best itinerary for a layover in Paris

8am - 9am 

Land at CDG and navigate the occasionally lengthy exit out of the airport. 

9am - 10am

Taxi into the Île Saint Louis. Avoid Ubers and scammers. Make sure you take an official taxi by following the very clear signs throughout the airport. 

Estimated cost: 56 euros

10am - 11am

Breakfast at Saint Régis, a friendly local cafe on the Île Saint Louis. Go traditional and get a croissant, an espresso and an omelette. Watch the city wake up with Notre Dame in the background. Address: 6 Rue Jean de Bellay, 75004

Estimated cost: 20 euros

11am - 12pm

Happily fed and watered, walk over to the Île de la Cité to see Notre Dame. It’s a great time to visit, to see the end of the reconstruction process. Cross the river again, and drop into Shakespeare & Company, not necessarily for a book, but a coffee and a snack. And, if there’s no line, pop in and buy a children’s book.  

Address: 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005

Estimated cost: 10 euros

Discover more about Shakespeare & Company here. 

12pm - 12.30pm

Time is short and we hope Will is wearing comfortable shoes because it’s time to walk up to the Pantheon. Entrance is optional, but if you do go in then your should buy the ‘Skip the Line’ ticket. Totally worth it. 

Address: Place du Pantheon, 75005

Estimated cost: 13 euros

12.30pm - 1.30pm 

Leave the Pantheon and walk down Rue Soufflot to the Luxembourg Gardens. Enjoy the spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower along the way because it’s the only chance you’ll have to see it. Once inside the park, put up your feet on one of those iconic green benches. “Sit there and watch Saturday Paris.”

Estimated cost: free

1.30pm - 2pm

Jump on an Uber bike and cycle down to the Marais. Go directly to the Hôtel de Sully and go through the most beautiful shortcut in Europe, into the stunning and regal garden at Place des Vosges. 

Address: 62 Rue Saint Antoine, 75004

Estimated cost: 3 euros for the bike

Read more about the unmissable spots to visit in the Marais here. 

2pm - 3pm

Time for some lunch and culture! Pick up a delicious falafel from Miznon (either eat-in or find a bench around the corner in Jardin Joseph Migneret on Rue des Rosiers). 

Address: Miznon, 22 Rue des Écouffes, 75004

Estimated cost: 11 euros

3pm - 4pm

The taste of culture comes from the Musée des Archives, which is a gem. This place is so stunning, it was used as a shooting location for one of the Mission Impossible movies. Visit it for the rooms alone, don’t even worry about the documents in the archives (save that for the next trip). 

Address: 60 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003

Estimated cost: free

4pm - 5pm 

Right next to the National Archives, you’ll find the number 29 bus, which goes right past the Opéra Garnier. Don’t underestimate the bus in Paris! You get to see so much of the city for the low price of a bus ticket, plus it’s easier for people using strollers and wheelchairs. Switch over to the number 95 bus and head up to Montmartre. To buy your ticket via your phone, simply text BUS plus the bus number (eg. BUS29 or BUS95) to 93100.

Estimated cost: 2.50 euros 

5pm - 6pm

Celebrate having made it up to Montmartre with a drink at the Terrass Hotel. Splash out on a signature cocktail and soak up the heart-stopping views from the rooftop terrace. 

Address: 12-14 Rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018

Estimated cost: 17 euros

6pm - 6.30pm

Enjoy a carefree promenade along my favourite street, Rue des Abbesses and wind your way up to the Moulin de la Galette, a 400-year old windmill in the heart of the neighbourhood. 

Estimated cost: free

6.30pm - 8pm

Dinner time at the Moulin de la Galette. The restaurant, serving traditional French food, isn’t going to blow your socks off, but its historical charm and fun will keep you entertained until it’s time to take the taxi back to the airport. 

Address: 83 Rue Lepic, 75018

Estimated cost: 34 euros for two-course set menu, plus 56 for the taxi

Total cost: 221 euros

We can’t wait to hear from Will with updates and photos from his 12 hours in Paris. Thank you all for your interest in this episode and to those who voted. 

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Enjoy this week’s episode, I’ll be back in your inbox on Friday with the weekly newsletter.

Oliver