Six things to seek out in the Latin Quarter of Paris

Some must-see and must-seek spots in the 5th arrondissement.

Hi folks,

This week at Earful Tower HQ it’s been all about the Latin Quarter in the 5th arrondissement. This fascinating corner of Paris was the subject of Monday’s podcast episode - and we even launched our newest walking tour out there.

Any guesses where this place is, below?

That’s right, it’s the Pantheon. I took that picture when they had a big mirror on the floor, which really let visitors experience the ceiling in a whole new magnificent way.

Now, let’s dive into a few things to seek out next time you’re in the Latin Quarter. And we’ll start with the Roman arena, which has recently really fascinated me. In fact, it was funny that we talked about arena-based water jousting in this week’s pod, because the very same sport featured in the trailer for the new Gladiator movie. The planets are all aligning!

1. Arènes de Lutèce - 47 Rue Monge, 75005

Step through an unremarkable door on Rue Monge and make your way back to the Roman period when Paris was known as Lutetia. This open space, now complete with outdoor seating, landscaped gardens and a small vineyard, was once an imposing gladiatorial arena which could seat 17,000 people. Located above the Bièvre river, these arenas were also the staging post for the dramatic sport of water jousting. 

2. The Pantheon - Place du Pantheon, 75005 

Completed mere months after the beginning of the French Revolution, this building has had quite the checkered history, but stands tall as the national mausoleum of France. Its 83 residents have, in one way or another, contributed to this glorious country. Make sure you visit the crypt, as well as the dome above, which boasts spectacular views across the city. And as I always say: Buy a ticket on your phone and skip the queue.

3. Rue Mouffetard

This exceptional street is not to be missed on any stroll around the Latin Quarter. Saturated in history from across the lifespan of Paris, the ancient Rue Mouffetard is a food-lover's paradise. Start at the Place de la Contrescarpe and make your way gently down the hill to the Église Saint-Medard, which is surrounded by excellent restaurants and produce stores. 

Here’s a story I wrote about the street: Seven intriguing facts about rue Mouffetard. While locals may still call it La Mouffe, it has had plenty of different names in the past, including: Montfétard, Maufetard, Mofetard, Moufetard, Mouflard, Moufetard, Moftard, Mostard. So if you’re unsure how to pronounce it, just say anything and you were probably right at one point in history :)

4. Ernest Hemingway’s two homes

A resident of Paris between 1921 and 1928, American writer Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote between these two apartments at the beginning of his time living here (74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine & 39 Rue Descartes).

They’re just two minutes walk away from each other. The Latin Quarter appears almost as a main character in Hemingway’s memoir of his Paris years, A Moveable Feast. Living in rather primitive conditions, he recalled of that time “such was the Paris of our youth, the days when we were very poor and very happy.”

Shakespeare & Company bookshop

Speaking of Ernest Hemingway, Shakespeare & Company is a haven for aspiring writers and book lovers alike. Open since 1951, this bookshop, which sits directly across from the Cathedral of Notre Dame (37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005), is now a must-see for any visitors to the Latin Quarter.

Drop in to buy a book or one of the shop’s famous tote bags and then pop next door to enjoy a coffee with an exceptional view of the cathedral. And of course, this shop is one of the best chances you’ll have of finding our collection of children’s books (which I went and signed this week - we have a full shelf there now!)

6. Messy Nessy’s Cabinet - 19 Rue de Bièvre, 75005

And lastly, in an ancient district, here’s something new: A shop from the brilliant Messy Nessy aka Vanessa Grall. She talked to me about selling bottles of the Seine river out of her brand new cabinet of curiosities on the Rue de Bièvre on the podcast recently. For lovers of Paris nostalgia, this charming store has all you need.

And there you have it.

Now that we’ve laid out the basics of the Latin Quarter, let us take you deeper.

We’ve just launched our newest walking tour of this very area. Tour guide Hannah Coyle talked about it on this week’s podcast. And, if you want to see all these treats - and a few more - book a tour here!

We’re running the Latin Quarter tour every Tuesday afternoon semi-privately, or privately whenever you wish. And as always, we do the Marais on Mondays and Montmartre on Fridays. More info here.

That’s it for now, have a lovely weekend

Oliver

PS: Thanks to all the Patreon members currently in Paris who took our Latin Quarter tour for free while we perfected the route. Sign up as an Earful Tower member for perks like this in the future, and much more.