Make sure you're sitting down: Here come the most stunning Paris passages

Six covered passages in Paris to add to your next Paris itinerary.

This week the beautiful covered passages of Paris kept popping into my life.

And by covered passages, I’m talking about the long, sometimes quite hidden pathways dotted around Paris, filled with shops and restaurants and covered with glass ceilings. Before the Haussmannian redo of Paris, there were around a hundred of these passages, but now there are only about 20 left. And they’re typically quite lovely.

So first, on Monday’s podcast episode, tour guide Bertrand d’Aleman recommended the covered passages of the 2nd arrondissement as the most fitting thing to see in the district. Given it’s a bit of a shortcut neighbourhood (between the Louvre and the Opera), he reasoned that a passageway was the best thing to see. Here’s the full list with pictures of everything he recommended. And below is our episode via YouTube, complete with video snippets from around Paris.

Then, on Thursday, I recommended five new cafes in Paris, one of which is in a refurbished passageway called the Galerie Richer. That cafe list is for The Earful Tower’s lovely paying members, but I’ll share this one cafe tip here for free. The cafe is called Noir, you can find it at 33 rue Richer, 75009, and it gets my tick of approval. That’s it pictured below.

Patreon members can read my full cafe list here, and I mailed it personally to all Substack members yesterday. (If you sign up to Substack today, I’ll mail it to you too).

Anyhow, given I can’t escape these passages, I figured I’d share my favourite six with you for this week’s newsletter. Let’s go.

1. Passage des Panoramas

Built in 1799, Passage des Panoramas is the oldest covered passage in Paris. You can definitely notice this in its more weathered walls and floors, but they only add to its charm. The history is only half of it; Passage des Panoramas is an exciting and bustling environment with a great choice of dining options.

This is the place to be on a weekday during lunch hour, with options including Italian, Chinese, and savoury burgers. There’s even a restaurant designed as the interior of a train carriage. And the less formal environment comes with lower prices than you’ll find in some of the other passages, which often house fine-dining options. 

Address: 11 boulevard Montmartre, 75002.
Open: Monday – Sunday, 6am to midnight.

2. Passage du Grand-Cerf

The Passage du Grand-Cerf stands out for its small and playful details. From the occasional piece of taxidermy on the walls to the cartoon swimmers on the ceiling pool – there is plenty here to catch your eye.

Inside, you will find some high-end and artisan stores, where you can buy fabric, antiques and other fun knick-knacks.

Address: 145 rue Saint-Denis, 75002.
Open: Monday – Saturday, 8:30am. – 7:45pm.

3. Galerie Vivienne

With its Pompeii-inspired tile floors, high-glass ceilings, and engraved pastel walls, the Galerie Vivienne is one of the prettiest passages by far. The storefronts offer extravagant displays and the boutiques make it feel like an elegant mall.

From high end clothes, jewellery and home décor, to used books, postcards and children’s toys, you could easily lose track of time in this enchanting alley.

Address: 4 rue des Petits-Champs, 75002.
Open: Monday – Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

4. Passage du Bourg-L’Abbé

The lesser-known and often disregarded passage is actually quite charming, and is filled with old facades framing the shops and tulip-shaped lanterns to guide you through. A perfect glimpse into Paris in the 19th century.

Address: passage du Bourg L’abbé, 75002
Open: Monday – Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

5. Galerie Colbert

Galerie Colbert is unique because it is not home to many shops or restaurants. Instead, you will find the Institut national d’histoire de l’art. It is a peaceful corner of Paris, unlike most of the other passages.

From small details on the walls to its grand glass rotunda with a statue of Eurydice being bitten by a snake in the centre, this is the best art you’ll see in any of the passages. You can also sit down for a meal at Le Grand Colbert restaurant, which serves seafood and French staples like escargot at €19 a dozen. And for the film buffs out there, this is where Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton dined in Something’s Gotta Give.

Address: 4 rue Vivienne, 75002.
Open: Monday – Sunday, 7:30am to 11:30pm.

6. Passage Jouffroy

And lastly, this picturesque passage dates back to the 1840s and has all the charm from yesteryear. It’s a great spot for souvenir shopping; you can choose from old maps and books, sweet confectionary, and there’s even a shop for antique umbrellas and canes. The waxwork museum - Grevin - makes for the perfect afternoon if you’ve always wanted to “meet” Emmanuel Macron, Gerard Depardieu, Jean Reno (or their friends).

Address: 10-12 Bd Montmartre, 75009 Paris

Open: Monday – Sunday, 7am to 9pm.

And that’s it! Stroll those passages, you won’t regret it!

Remember: This week’s pod guest was Bertrand from travel agency My Private Paris. I’m teaming up with them for this whole season. They do private tours of everything in Paris and beyond. They even do a walking tour of the Paris passages together with the Opera House. See more from them here - they’ll help you with your itinerary too.

This season they’ll be taking me outside of Paris - starting with the Champagne region on Wednesday, where I’ll be recording a live video for members (details to come).

Have a lovely weekend

Oliver