Is France having a stained glass revival?
This week we're visiting some of France's best Gothic churches and admiring their striking stained-glass windows.
Bonjour from a chilly Paris,
It’s the start of a new week and time for a new podcast. This week, under the guidance of Bertrand d’Aleman from My Private Paris, we are talking about stained glass windows and Gothic churches. These two have long been intrinsically connected and, according to Bertrand, they appear to be having a bit of renaissance.
What does this mean exactly?



Well, in short: it means that lots of medieval churches happen to be getting mega makeovers in recent years, and visitors are taking this perfect chance to experience Gothic churches almost as they were hundreds of years ago.
The longer version: Keep reading, and listen to today’s podcast, which features our visit to Chartres cathedral, Notre Dame de Paris, and the magnificent Sainte-Chapelle.
The podcast episode
Listen below, or wherever you get your podcasts. You can also find the episode on iTunes or Spotify or via my website here. There’s lots of photos to appreciate as you listen, so keep scrolling.
Gothic churches in France: background
France is home to hundreds of Gothic churches and cathedrals and dozens of them are in the process of being restored.
Undoubtedly, the first stained-glass Gothic church restoration which springs to mind is that of Notre Dame de Paris, but don’t be fooled into thinking this is the only one.
Chartres cathedral
This week Bertrand and I visited Chartres cathedral, which is a must-see for gothic architecture fans. A UNESCO world heritage site, the stained-glass windows are sensational and contain mostly the original glass.
It is pretty significant that a building of this age and importance is in the middle of an extensive restoration process, and it’s quite eye-opening to see half the cathedral’s interior shining in restored white, while the other half is black with grime.
The cathedral of Chartres has to be seen to be believed. It’s a miracle (in the truest sense) that this place survived World War Two. The stained glass windows are mind-blowing and it’s only about an hour and a half by train from Paris. Make a beeline for this place on your next trip.




Sainte Chapelle
In the heart of Paris, on the Île de la Cité, Sainte Chapelle is a Gothic architectural wonder. Every year, almost a million people flock to marvel at the world-class stained glass windows. An awe-inspiring experience.



Notre Dame de Paris
Only a four minute walk from Sainte Chapelle, the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris has re-opened to universal rapturous reactions. When the light hit through the south-facing stained glass windows onto the blonde stone it was a transcendent experience. N.B. The queue to get in moves very quickly, so no need to cut in (as someone did to us).








Of course, for a much deeper dive into what it all means, listen to the podcast episode.
Thanks Hannah Coyle for the additional reporting and to Bertrand d’Aleman for sharing his staggering stained glass knowledge. See what tour My Private Paris offer here.
If you’re enjoying what we’re doing here at The Earful Tower, please become a Patreon member here to support it and to unlock extras, or on Substack via the links below.
Oliver
Also to know about, for those who are interested in the beauty of stained glass, this relatively new museum in Troyes. (I haven't been there but I've heard it's really wonderful from people whose taste and judgment I believe in and trust :-) https://cite-vitrail.fr/